I'm not in Kansas anymore...

First sights of Nepal: children living in poverty Nepal was a place of many realisations for me. When I crossed the border and had to navigate my way to the airport alone, on the back of a cart amidst political crisis and angry villagers brandishing guns, although I was fearful of my own safety my prevailing thought was surprisingly one of gratitude. For the poverty that I witnessed as I took that terrifying drive to the airport was like nothing I had ever seen before. Despite my circumstances, I was able to be thankful even in that moment that I have grown up with food on the table, clothes on my back and wanting for nothing. I realised that all of my perceived problems were merely trifling and "first world".  And then as I trekked in the overwhelmingly beauty of the Nepali countryside I was struck not only by the simplicity of peoples lives but also by their incredible kindness. To quote Shantaram "there is no act of faith more beautiful than the generosity of the...

Tibetan prayer flags litter every building in the camps Ever since I was a young child I have had an interest in Tibet, Tibetan monks and Buddhism. My inherent interest in this culture was only enhanced by my recent stay in Dharamsala, home to the Tibetan government in exile and the Dalai Lama. Tibetan people seem to me to emanate a natural peace in spite of all of the social and political challenges that they have faced. When I landed in Nepal, the Tibetan theme continued  as I realised that despite its relatively small size, this country is home to an estimated 30,000 Tibetan refugees and Tibet is everywhere - whether that be in the form of handicraft shops, the sound of the "Om mani padme hum" mantra echoing from shops, prayer flags fluttering overhead, even Lama schools - you can't help but see the Tibetan influence exerted on Nepali life.  Washing hanging to dry inside the camp The refugees began to arrive in the early 1950s but came in their droves after...

Nepali countryside And so it was that I went deep into the Nepali countryside in search of mountain air, peace pagodas and Tibetan monks. The journey began as all good journeys do, with a stinking hangover. We had made sure that my last night in Kathmandu was a good one but the after effects were not conducive to 7 hours on a non AC bus in 35 degrees heat. I had the misfortune of having to sit next to a Fijian ex army guy who was sipping whiskey from a plastic bottle at 7am in the morning and regaling me with tales of carnality and alcohol. The 200km ride to Pokhara on the one potholed road was not without incident. We had to stop at many road blockades guarded by locals who were strongly enforcing the bandh (nationwide transport ban). Groups of men gathered menacingly together beneath hand-daubed posters and there were even stuffed mannequins hanging by the neck. It was all very Mayor of Casterbridge-esque. The poor Nepalis who had risked a ride in our ‘tourist bus’ were stoppe...

Kathmandu is named after the traditional Kaasthamandap temples found in Durbar Square After my long and passionate love affair with India, Nepal felt like a mildly disappointing rebound shag. OK perhaps that is a little unfair. I shall begin again, a little more objectively... Slightly heartbroken and more than a little bit knackered after 5 days of journeying, I landed in Nepal's capital. After spending a month in the peace of the Indian mountains arriving back into 'the real world' was a shock to the system: hustlers, hawkers, coffee, bars, alcohol, tourists, noise. It was bewildering. Having presumed that I would be travelling a deux , I hadn't done much planning and therefore didn't know my way around or what to expect. Without a partner in crime and facing the confusing cartography of Kathmandu alone I was psychically - as well as physically - lost. For a little while anyway.  Temples in Bhaktapur   Emotionally exhausted, I slept the sleep of angel...